Custom Marquise Cut Diamond Rings — Regal Elegance
Born from a French king's devotion, the marquise diamond delivers the largest face-up area per carat of any shape. Commission your bespoke marquise ring with Riolls master goldsmiths.
What Is a Marquise Cut Diamond?
The marquise cut (from the French word for “marchioness”) is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond with two pointed ends and gently curved sides, resembling an eye or a boat hull. It is also known as the “navette” cut, from the French word for “little boat.”
Legend holds it was commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the 1740s, who asked his court jeweller to cut a diamond in the shape of the lips of his beloved, the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether apocryphal or not, this origin story has made the marquise the most romantic and aristocratic of all diamond shapes.
The marquise features 56–58 brilliant-cut facets and produces the largest face-up area per carat of any diamond shape. Its elongated form spreads weight across a dramatically wide surface rather than concentrating it in depth, making it appear significantly larger than other shapes at the same carat weight.
How the Marquise Cut Works
The marquise employs brilliant-cut faceting — triangular and kite-shaped facets that maximise light return. The two pointed ends act as light concentrators, creating bright “headlights” at each tip. The curved belly spreads brilliance across a wide, dramatic arc.
Like ovals and pears, the marquise can exhibit a bow-tie shadow across its widest point. A well-proportioned marquise minimises this to a subtle depth effect. The key proportions are the belly curvature (not too flat, not too bulging) and the wing symmetry (both sides must mirror each other exactly).
The elongated shape creates a distinctive visual rhythm: concentrated brilliance at the two tips, sweeping sparkle across the curved sides, and a broad glow at the centre. On the finger, the marquise creates the most dramatic finger-elongating effect of any diamond shape.
The Marquise Diamond in Love
“The marquise was born from a king's love — and every one since carries the echo of that grand romantic gesture.”
The marquise symbolises regal love and extravagant devotion. Its royal French origins — a king commissioning a diamond shaped like his beloved's smile — make it the most romantically storied of all diamond shapes. Choosing a marquise says: “my love for you is grand enough for royalty.”
The two pointed ends, reaching outward in opposite directions, symbolise a love that extends infinitely in both directions — past and future, giving and receiving, you and me. It is the diamond of the maximalist, the person who believes love should be celebrated loudly and visibly.
Famous marquise diamonds include the 15.37-carat marquise at the centre of Queen Victoria's coronation necklace and Catherine Zeta-Jones's 10-carat marquise engagement ring from Michael Douglas.
The 4Cs for Marquise Cut Diamonds
The marquise features 56–58 brilliant-cut facets. No GIA cut grade exists. Symmetry is paramount — both pointed ends must mirror each other perfectly, and the two curved sides (the "belly") must be identical. The ideal length-to-width ratio is 1.75–2.15, with 2.00 being the classic proportion. Watch for the bow-tie effect and ensure even wing curvature.
Marquise diamonds can concentrate colour at the two pointed tips, making body tint more visible at the extremities. We recommend G–H for white metal settings. The elongated shape creates a large surface area that can reveal colour more than compact shapes. For yellow gold, I–J marquises offer warm, regal beauty and excellent value.
The brilliant-cut pattern masks inclusions well. SI1 is typically eye-clean above 1 carat. Avoid inclusions at either pointed tip — these areas are thin and vulnerable. Also beware of inclusions at the belly centre, which is the widest visible area of the stone. VS2 is recommended for marquises under 1 carat.
The marquise has the largest face-up area per carat of any diamond shape. A 1.00-carat marquise at 2.00 ratio measures approximately 10.0 x 5.0mm — appearing significantly larger than any other shape at the same carat weight. This makes the marquise the ultimate "big look" diamond for those who want maximum visual impact from their carat investment.
Why Customize a Marquise Diamond Ring?
The marquise is one of the rarest diamond shapes — most jewellers carry very few, if any, in stock. Finding a marquise with perfect symmetry, even wings, minimal bow-tie, and ideal proportions off the shelf is virtually impossible. Custom is the natural path.
Both pointed tips require precision V-prong protection. The setting must be engineered for the marquise's exact length, width, and belly curvature. East-west settings, three-stone designs with side pears, and vintage-inspired bezels all complement the marquise beautifully.
At Riolls, every marquise ring is designed around your specific stone — handcrafted by a single master goldsmith in solid gold.
Crafting your custom marquise diamond ring in 5 steps
Share your vision — carat, ratio, orientation (north-south or east-west), setting style, and metal.
We source symmetrical marquise diamonds with even wings, minimal bow-tie, and perfect point alignment.
Review photorealistic 3D renders with V-prong tip protection from every angle.
Your ring is hand-forged with precision V-prongs at each pointed tip.
Arrives with diamond certificates, hallmarking, and full transit insurance.
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Everything you need to know about custom marquise diamond rings
What is a marquise cut diamond?
The marquise (also called "navette," French for "little boat") is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond with two pointed ends and curved sides. Legend holds it was commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the 18th century, inspired by the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. It features 56–58 facets and delivers the largest face-up area per carat of any diamond shape.
What does a marquise diamond symbolise in love?
The marquise symbolises regal love, grandeur, and passionate devotion. Its French royal origins connect it to aristocratic romance and the grand gesture. The two pointed ends, reaching outward in both directions, represent a love that extends infinitely — no boundaries, no limits. It is the diamond of the bold romantic, the person who loves extravagantly.
Does the marquise really look bigger than other shapes?
Yes. The marquise has the largest face-up surface area per carat weight of any diamond shape. Its elongated form spreads weight across a larger visible area rather than concentrating it in depth. A 1.00-carat marquise can appear 15–20% larger than a 1.00-carat round, making it the most efficient shape for maximising apparent size.
What settings work best for a marquise diamond?
The two pointed tips require V-prong protection. Popular settings include: classic 6-prong solitaire (V-prongs at each tip), bezel setting for maximum tip protection, halo setting to accentuate the elongated shape, and east-west setting (horizontal orientation) for a modern, unconventional look.
How long does a custom marquise diamond ring take?
A custom marquise diamond ring at Riolls takes 6 to 10 weeks from design approval. This includes sourcing a symmetrical marquise with minimal bow-tie, 3D CAD rendering, hand-forging with V-prong tip protection, and hallmarking.
Commission your custom marquise diamond ring
Book a complimentary consultation to select your regal marquise diamond and design your bespoke setting.