Custom Oval Cut Diamond Rings — Brilliance, Elongated
The oval diamond delivers the fire and scintillation of a round brilliant in an elongated silhouette that flatters the finger and appears larger per carat. Commission your bespoke oval engagement ring with Riolls master goldsmiths.
What Is an Oval Cut Diamond?
The oval diamond is a modified brilliant cut featuring 56–58 facets arranged in an elongated elliptical shape. It was created in 1957 by Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, who sought to combine the fire and brilliance of the round brilliant with a more distinctive, elongated silhouette.
The oval uses the same brilliant-cut faceting pattern as the round — triangular and kite-shaped facets that maximise light return. Because of this, a well-cut oval produces sparkle that is virtually indistinguishable from a round brilliant, but with the added visual benefit of a larger apparent face-up area. A 1.00-carat oval can appear 10–15% larger than a 1.00-carat round.
The oval has become the fastest-growing diamond shape in engagement rings, surging in popularity since 2018. Its elongated form flatters the finger, creates an impression of length and elegance, and pairs beautifully with both modern and vintage settings.
How the Oval Cut Works
The oval employs the brilliant-cut faceting principle: light enters through the table, bounces between angled pavilion facets, and is reflected back through the crown. The key difference from a round is the elongated girdle outline, which distributes brilliance across a wider area.
The most important optical consideration for ovals is the “bow-tie effect” — a dark shadow across the centre caused by light leaking through improperly angled central pavilion facets. Some bow-tie is inevitable and even adds depth and character; a severe bow-tie, however, creates a visible dark band. Our gemologists carefully evaluate every oval for bow-tie severity before selection.
The elongated shape also creates a unique light pattern: the tips of the oval concentrate brilliance (producing bright “headlights”), while the centre displays a broader, softer glow. This interplay of concentrated and diffused light gives the oval its signature visual character.
The Oval Diamond in Love
“The oval is for those who honour tradition but refuse to follow it blindly — love that is classic in spirit but bold in expression.”
The oval diamond represents individuality within elegance. It shares the round's eternal brilliance but stretches it into a more distinctive, modern form. Choosing an oval says: “I appreciate the timeless, but I express it my way.”
The oval's egg-like shape has ancient associations with fertility, new beginnings, and the promise of life — making it a deeply symbolic choice for an engagement ring. In modern culture, the oval has been chosen by celebrities including Blake Lively, Hailey Bieber, and Kourtney Kardashian, cementing its status as the diamond shape of the contemporary romantic.
Its elongated form also creates a flattering visual effect on the hand, making the finger appear longer and more slender — a practical beauty that complements its symbolic depth.
The 4Cs for Oval Cut Diamonds
Oval diamonds do not receive an official GIA cut grade. The quality of an oval cut is evaluated by its length-to-width ratio (1.30–1.50 is ideal), symmetry of the two halves, and the presence or absence of a "bow-tie" — a dark shadow that appears across the centre of poorly proportioned ovals. At Riolls, our gemologists hand-select ovals with minimal bow-tie effect and excellent symmetry.
Oval diamonds tend to show more body colour than round brilliants, particularly at the pointed ends where light concentrates. We recommend G–H colour for a clean white appearance. In yellow or rose gold settings, I–J colour ovals offer beautiful warmth and exceptional value. Always view the stone from the face-up position (as it will be worn) rather than from the side.
The oval brilliant-cut pattern is effective at masking inclusions — the rapid sparkle distracts the eye. SI1 clarity is typically eye-clean for ovals above 1 carat. For stones 0.50–1.00 carat, VS2 is recommended. Be mindful of inclusions near the tips, which are thinner and more transparent, making flaws more visible at the extremities.
Oval diamonds have one of the largest face-up sizes per carat of any shape. A 1.00-carat oval (at 1.35 ratio) measures approximately 8.0 x 5.9mm — significantly larger in apparent size than a 1.00-carat round (6.4mm). This makes the oval an excellent choice for maximising visual impact per carat invested. Ovals also elongate the finger, creating an elegant, slimming effect.
Why Customize an Oval Diamond Ring?
No two oval diamonds are alike. Unlike rounds that are cut to strict mathematical standards, ovals vary enormously in ratio, bow-tie severity, and brilliance pattern. A bespoke service allows you to hand-select the exact oval — comparing multiple stones to find the one with ideal proportions and minimal bow-tie.
The oval pairs with a wide range of settings: classic 4-prong solitaires, cathedral mounts, east-west settings (where the oval sits horizontally for a modern look), three-stone designs with side pears or trapezes, and halo settings that amplify the elongated shape.
At Riolls, every oval ring is designed from scratch around your specific stone — ensuring the prongs are positioned to protect the tips, the basket cradles the exact curvature, and the band width complements the oval's proportions. Handcrafted in solid gold by a single master artisan.
Crafting your custom oval diamond ring in 5 steps
Share your vision — preferred carat weight, length-to-width ratio, setting style (solitaire, halo, three-stone), and metal.
We hand-select GIA or IGI certified oval diamonds with excellent symmetry and minimal bow-tie effect.
Review photorealistic 3D renders of your oval ring design from every angle before metalwork begins.
Your ring is forged by hand by a single artisan in our Surat atelier — unhurried, precise, made entirely for you.
Arrives at your doorstep in luxury packaging with independent diamond certificates and full insurance.
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Everything you need to know about custom oval diamond rings
What is an oval diamond?
The oval diamond is a modified brilliant cut featuring 56–58 facets arranged in an elongated elliptical shape. Created by Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s, the oval combines the sparkle and fire of a round brilliant with an elongated silhouette that appears larger per carat and creates a flattering finger-elongating effect.
What is the "bow-tie effect" in oval diamonds?
The bow-tie is a dark shadow that appears across the centre of the diamond, resembling a man's bow-tie. It is caused by light leaking through improperly angled pavilion facets in the centre of the stone. Some bow-tie is normal and even desirable (it adds depth), but a prominent, dark bow-tie detracts from the stone's beauty. At Riolls, we reject ovals with excessive bow-tie.
What does an oval diamond symbolise in love?
The oval diamond symbolises individuality and creativity within tradition. It offers the same eternal brilliance as a round but with a distinctive, modern twist. The elongated shape represents a love that stretches beyond the ordinary — elegant, forward-thinking, and confidently unique. It is the choice of someone who honours tradition but refuses to be defined by it.
What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for an oval diamond?
The ideal ratio is between 1.30 and 1.50. At 1.35, the oval appears classically proportioned. Below 1.25, it looks almost round; above 1.55, it can appear thin. Personal preference matters — some prefer a rounder oval (1.25–1.35) while others prefer a more elongated look (1.40–1.50). At Riolls, we help you compare ratios during your consultation.
How long does a custom oval diamond ring take?
A custom oval diamond ring at Riolls takes 6 to 10 weeks from design approval. This includes sourcing a symmetrical oval with minimal bow-tie, creating 3D CAD renders, hand-forging the setting in solid gold, precision stone setting, and hallmarking.
Commission your custom oval diamond ring
Book a complimentary consultation with our gemologists to select your ideal oval diamond and design your bespoke setting.