Modern Geometry · Maximum Brilliance

Custom Princess Cut Diamond Rings — Bold, Brilliant, Modern

The princess cut packs the fire of a round brilliant into a clean, contemporary square — the most efficient diamond shape for brilliance per carat. Commission your bespoke princess ring with Riolls master goldsmiths.

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Understanding the Cut

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

The princess cut is a square brilliant-cut diamond created in 1980, featuring 50–76 facets arranged in a distinctive chevron (V-shaped) pattern. It was designed to be the square equivalent of the round brilliant — delivering comparable fire and scintillation in a bold, geometric form.

Unlike the rounded softness of a cushion or the transparent elegance of an emerald, the princess cut is defined by sharp, clean lines and pointed corners. When viewed from above, the chevron pattern creates a distinctive “X” or cross pattern within the stone. It is the diamond shape most aligned with modern, architectural aesthetics.

The princess cut retains approximately 80% of the original rough diamond — more than any other brilliant cut. This efficiency makes it one of the most cost-effective diamond shapes, offering brilliant-cut sparkle at a lower price per carat than a round.

The Science of Light

How the Princess Cut Works

The princess cut's chevron facet pattern creates a unique light interaction. Light enters through the square table, bounces between the V-shaped pavilion facets, and is reflected back in a pattern that combines the scintillation of a brilliant cut with geometric precision.

The number of chevron rows determines the sparkle character: a 2-chevron princess produces fewer, larger, bolder flashes (similar to a round brilliant). A 4-chevron princess produces many smaller, more rapid sparkles (similar to crushed ice). Most princess diamonds feature 3 chevron rows — a balanced middle ground.

The sharp corners of the princess act as light traps — concentrating brilliance at the four points and creating visible “arrows” of light that radiate outward from the centre. This gives the princess a distinctly energetic, dynamic sparkle pattern.

Love & Symbolism

The Princess Diamond in Love

“The princess cut is for the person who loves with conviction — sharp, clear, and brilliantly modern.”

The princess cut represents bold, contemporary love. Its clean geometric lines speak to clarity of intention — no ambiguity, no softening of edges. It is the diamond of the decisive, the modern, the person who knows exactly what they want and isn't afraid to declare it.

The name “princess” itself carries royal connotations — distinction, being chosen, being elevated. Giving a princess cut engagement ring says: “you are singular, you are chosen, and our love is as precise and brilliant as this stone.”

The princess is the most popular diamond shape among millennial couples, chosen for its combination of modern aesthetics, brilliant sparkle, and exceptional value.

Diamond Selection Guide

The 4Cs for Princess Cut Diamonds

✦Cut

The princess cut features 50–76 facets arranged in a unique chevron pattern visible through the pavilion. More chevron rows (3–4) produce more scintillation; fewer rows (2) produce larger, bolder flashes. No official GIA cut grade exists. The ideal ratio is 1.00–1.05 (perfectly square). Look for excellent symmetry and even light distribution across all four quadrants.

◈Color

Princess cuts retain slightly more body colour than rounds due to their pointed corners acting as colour concentrators. We recommend G–H for white gold settings. The sharp corners can show warmth, so stepping up to F–G provides extra insurance for colour-sensitive buyers. In yellow gold, I–J performs beautifully.

◇Clarity

The princess cut's brilliant-cut chevron pattern hides inclusions well — comparable to a round. SI1 is typically eye-clean above 1 carat. However, avoid inclusions near the four corners — these pointed areas are thin and vulnerable to chipping, and an inclusion at a corner weakens the structural integrity. VS2 is recommended for extra security.

⬡Carat

Princess cuts have one of the best carat-to-value ratios. Because the square shape retains approximately 80% of the rough diamond (vs. 40% for rounds), princess cuts cost 20–30% less per carat than equivalent round brilliants. A 1.00-carat princess measures approximately 5.5mm across — appearing slightly smaller than a 1.00-carat round (6.4mm) but offering superior sparkle per dollar.

The Case for Bespoke

Why Customize a Princess Diamond Ring?

The princess cut's sharp corners require specialised settings. V-prong corner protection is essential to prevent chipping, and the setting must be engineered for the exact dimensions of your stone. Mass-produced settings rarely achieve this precision.

Custom design also lets you choose the chevron pattern that suits your sparkle preference — bold 2-chevron flashes for a dramatic look, or rapid 4-chevron scintillation for maximum sparkle. This level of selection is impossible with off-the-shelf rings.

At Riolls, every princess ring is designed around your specific stone. Settings include channel-set princess bands, solitaires with V-prong corners, halos, and cathedral mounts. Handcrafted in solid gold.

Bespoke Process

Crafting your custom princess diamond ring in 5 steps

01Consultation

Share your vision — carat, chevron preference (2, 3, or 4 rows), setting style, and metal choice.

02GIA Diamond Selection

We source GIA/IGI certified princess diamonds with excellent symmetry and clean corners.

033D CAD Renderings

Review photorealistic 3D renders with V-prong corner protection from every angle.

04Master Goldsmithing

Your ring is hand-forged with precision V-prongs protecting each corner.

05Insured Delivery

Arrives with diamond certificates, hallmarking, and full transit insurance.

Authenticity & Material Guarantee

GIA/IGI Certified Gems
Solid 9k to 22k Precious Metals
BIS Hallmarked

Engagement Ring Guides

Wedding Ring Guides

Diamond Guides

Questions Answered

Everything you need to know about custom princess diamond rings

What is a princess cut diamond?

The princess cut is a square brilliant-cut diamond featuring 50–76 facets arranged in a chevron (V-shaped) pattern. Created in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, it was designed to combine the fire and brilliance of a round with a modern, geometric square outline. It is the second most popular diamond shape after the round brilliant.

What does a princess diamond symbolise in love?

The princess cut symbolises boldness, modernity, and confident individuality. Its sharp, clean lines represent a love that is decisive and forward-looking — contemporary rather than traditional. The name "princess" itself evokes royalty, distinction, and being chosen. It is the diamond of the modern romantic who values clarity of design and strength of conviction.

Why are princess cut diamonds more affordable than round?

The princess cut retains approximately 80% of the original rough diamond during cutting (versus approximately 40% for a round brilliant). This means less waste, more efficient use of the raw material, and a lower cost per carat. The savings are passed directly to the buyer — making the princess one of the best value-for-brilliance propositions in diamond cutting.

Do princess cut corners need protection?

Yes. The four sharp corners of a princess cut are vulnerable to chipping if struck against a hard surface. This is why V-prong settings (which wrap around each corner) or bezel settings are strongly recommended. At Riolls, every princess ring is designed with corner protection as a standard feature, ensuring structural security without sacrificing aesthetics.

How long does a custom princess diamond ring take?

A custom princess diamond ring at Riolls takes 6 to 10 weeks from design approval. This includes GIA stone selection with corner inspection, 3D CAD rendering, hand-forging with V-prong corner protection, and hallmarking.

Commission your custom princess diamond ring

Book a complimentary consultation to select your perfect princess diamond and design your bespoke setting.

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