Custom Pear Shaped Diamond Rings — Teardrop Brilliance
The pear diamond — half round, half marquise — creates a dramatic teardrop silhouette that elongates the finger and captures light with extraordinary brilliance. Commission your bespoke pear ring with Riolls master goldsmiths.
What Is a Pear Shaped Diamond?
The pear shaped diamond is a modified brilliant cut with 56–58 facets, combining one rounded end (like a round brilliant) with one tapered point (like a marquise). The result is a distinctive teardrop or “drop of water” silhouette that has captivated jewellery lovers for over five centuries.
Created in 1475 by Flemish diamond polisher Lodewyk van Berquem — who also invented the scaif (the diamond polishing wheel) — the pear was one of the first fancy diamond shapes ever cut. Van Berquem's innovation in symmetrical faceting made the pear possible and revolutionised diamond cutting forever.
The pear's asymmetric form makes it one of the most visually dramatic diamond shapes. It draws the eye along its length, from the broad, brilliant rounded end to the sharp, luminous point — creating a sense of movement and direction that no symmetrical shape can replicate.
How the Pear Cut Works
The pear uses the brilliant-cut faceting pattern — triangular and kite-shaped facets that maximise light return. The rounded end behaves much like half a round brilliant, producing intense, rapid sparkle. The tapered point concentrates light into a bright focal point, creating a “headlight” effect at the tip.
Like ovals and marquises, pear diamonds can exhibit a “bow-tie” — a dark shadow across the widest part caused by misaligned pavilion facets. A well-cut pear minimises this to a subtle depth effect. Our gemologists evaluate every pear for bow-tie severity, wing symmetry, and point alignment.
The asymmetric shape creates a unique light pattern: concentrated brilliance in the rounded base, elongated sparkle along the wings, and a single bright “star” at the pointed tip. This gives the pear a visual dynamism that changes as the hand moves — always catching light from a new angle.
The Pear Diamond in Love
“The pear is a teardrop of joy frozen in diamond — love so beautiful it moves you to tears.”
The pear diamond symbolises tears of happiness and overwhelming emotion. Its teardrop form is a universal symbol of deep feeling — not sadness, but the kind of profound joy that catches in your throat and brings tears to your eyes. It is the diamond of the deeply emotional, the unabashedly romantic.
The pear's asymmetric beauty also speaks to individuality. Unlike the perfect circle of a round or the precise geometry of a princess, the pear is deliberately unusual — beautiful because of its uniqueness, not in spite of it. It is the choice of someone who values originality and self-expression.
Notable pear diamond lovers include Victoria Beckham (whose 17-carat pear is one of several engagement rings from David), Paris Hilton (who received a 20-carat pear from Carter Reum), and Cardi B (whose 8-carat pear from Offset made headlines worldwide).
The 4Cs for Pear Shaped Diamonds
The pear shape is a hybrid of the round brilliant and marquise, featuring 56–58 facets. Symmetry is crucial — the point must align precisely with the centre of the rounded end. The ideal length-to-width ratio is 1.45–1.75, with 1.55 being the classic proportion. Watch for the "bow-tie" effect (dark centre shadow) and ensure the wings (sides) are evenly curved. There is no GIA cut grade for pears.
Pear diamonds can concentrate colour at the pointed tip, making body colour more visible there. We recommend G–H colour for a bright white appearance. The pointed end is thinner and more transparent, so colour is more perceptible at the tip than the rounded base. In yellow or rose gold settings, I–J offers excellent warmth and value.
The brilliant-cut pattern hides inclusions well. SI1 is typically eye-clean for pears above 1 carat. Avoid inclusions near the point — this area is structurally vulnerable and an inclusion at the tip can create a weak point prone to chipping. VS2 is recommended for stones under 1 carat or for perfectionist buyers.
The pear shape has an excellent face-up size — its elongated form creates a large surface area per carat. A 1.00-carat pear at 1.55 ratio measures approximately 8.5 x 5.5mm, appearing noticeably larger than a 1.00-carat round (6.4mm). The elongated silhouette also creates a flattering finger-lengthening effect.
Why Customize a Pear Diamond Ring?
Every pear diamond is unique in its proportions. The ratio, wing curvature, shoulder height, and point sharpness vary from stone to stone. A bespoke service lets you compare multiple pears side-by-side and select the one with the silhouette that speaks to you.
The pear's pointed tip requires a V-prong for protection. The rounded end needs precisely placed prongs that showcase the shape without obscuring it. The setting must be engineered specifically for your stone's exact proportions — something only a bespoke commission can achieve.
At Riolls, pear diamond rings are designed around your specific stone. We offer solitaires, halos, three-stone settings with side stones, and east-west orientations. Each is handcrafted by a single master goldsmith in solid gold.
Crafting your custom pear diamond ring in 5 steps
Share your vision — preferred carat, ratio, orientation (point up, down, or east-west), setting style, and metal.
We hand-select symmetrical pear diamonds with minimal bow-tie, even wings, and perfectly centred points.
Review photorealistic 3D renders from every angle before metalwork begins.
Your ring is forged by hand — the delicate point protected by a precision V-prong.
Arrives with diamond certificates, hallmarking, and full transit insurance.
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Everything you need to know about custom pear diamond rings
What is a pear shaped diamond?
The pear shape (also called the "teardrop") is a brilliant-cut diamond with one rounded end and one pointed end, creating a teardrop silhouette. It combines the brilliance of a round with the elongated elegance of a marquise. Created in 1475 by Flemish diamond polisher Lodewyk van Berquem, the pear is one of the oldest fancy shapes in existence.
What does a pear diamond symbolise in love?
The pear diamond is often called the "teardrop of joy" — it symbolises tears of happiness, deep emotion, and the overwhelming beauty of love. Its unique asymmetric shape (rounded at one end, pointed at the other) represents individuality and the courage to be different. It is the diamond of the unconventional romantic.
Which way should a pear diamond face when worn?
Traditionally, the point faces toward the fingertips (away from the wrist), as this orientation elongates the finger. However, some prefer "north-south" with the point toward the wrist, or "east-west" with the pear set horizontally for a modern look. At Riolls, we design your setting for whichever orientation you prefer.
How important is symmetry for a pear diamond?
Symmetry is critical. The point must be perfectly centred above the midpoint of the rounded end. The two curved "wings" must mirror each other in shape and size. The "shoulders" (where the curves begin to narrow toward the point) must be equally positioned. Asymmetry in a pear shape is immediately noticeable.
How long does a custom pear diamond ring take?
A custom pear diamond ring at Riolls takes 6 to 10 weeks from design approval. This includes selecting a symmetrical pear with minimal bow-tie, 3D CAD rendering, hand-forging, precision V-prong setting at the point, and hallmarking.
Commission your custom pear diamond ring
Book a complimentary consultation to select your ideal teardrop diamond and design your bespoke setting.